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Topic: Wow! I haven't been here in a long time!
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cube
Member
Member # 69
Member Rated:
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posted 06-30-2010 10:26 AM
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I rolled up to a crowded (extremely crowded this day) sand bar that was PUMPING on sunday morning. A thick black line of wetsuits in the lineup looking like ants on a freshly dropped ice cream cone. I zip my wetsuit up and Taylor Knox runs out to get his share, video crew on the beach. A-frames up and down the beach, even where it doesn't normally break. I'm not even to the peak yet and the set of the day swings wide over in my direction. Dammit, I missed the best wave of the day and I haven't even got to the peak yet.
After kicking myself (I have been for days) I pull into this nice left that's peaking up in front of me.
I drive toward the section and point my tip straight up into the lip. I blast the section as hard as possible and at the end of the turn I start floating the white water back down. I stuck the drop and then pumped around the section. After kicking out, I look back and there's Taylor right in front of where I smacked that turn. I hope he enjoyed the view.
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12O8
Member
Member # 1260
Member Rated:
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posted 07-01-2010 09:45 AM
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LOL F*CK yeh!! Maybe you'll make the cut in his next video Damnit..... I gotta go surfing! Need to surf, Need to surf, Need to surf, Need to surf, Need to surf, Need to surf, Need to surf, Need to surf, Need to surf, Need to surf, Need to surf, Need to surf....
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cube
Member
Member # 69
Member Rated:
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posted 07-09-2010 12:52 PM
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LOL, I don't think so. The cam looked like it was a nice one but not one of video quality. Even then, my best turns only qualify for the kookout session when compared to him. he rips. I can say I missed the best session and sat on the beach watching it. I drank way too many beers and stayed up way too late on the 4th. I woke up with a massive, MASSIVE, headache. My buddy was ready to paddle out and I had to pull the plug. So we walked down to get breakfast. Checked the surf and it was off the charts good at a central SD jetty. Heavy heavy rights refracting off the jetty opening up wide with 150 of San Diegos finest in the take off zone that is about 10ft by 10ft. I sat and watched kicking myself for drinking too much. After a 3 hour nap and 2 advil, I was almost ready to surf around 4pm. LOL Went to N. SD and it was banging for a south swell. Rode my 5'10 and dropped in on some big walls. Current was moving fast. Drifted down to middle of the beach and it had the most perfect corner. Well overhead sets pushing through and just me and a buddy on this corner. I scored a few of the best lefts I've had in months. Got out, called it a day. Woke up and hit it again the next day. Next day, Next day and now it's dropped and I'm gonna bring an 8'0 to the beach to mess around. Let me know if anyone's hiring. I need a job but I'll be surfing in the mean time.
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12O8
Member
Member # 1260
Member Rated:
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posted 07-12-2010 09:55 AM
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"I sat and watched kicking myself for drinking too much. After a 3 hour nap and 2 advil, I was almost ready to surf around 4pm. LOL"AAAAHHHHHHHHH! LOL, brutal. I gave that up long ago - too many missed sessions of.... whatever - so much to do, so little time  The N SD session sounds..... incredible! Very sorry to hear the work world is not treating you as well. I'm happy every time I get a paycheck.... Heading to the beach for a 3-day weekend! Not much out there but the lack of water time is getting pretty ridiculous. I'll be standing up on something one way or another. Sounds like you're killin it on the wave search! Good luck on the job search!
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